Generalized Aromatics and Ingredients List

This is a very simple list of ingredients one may see in incense and/or perfume. This is not a detailed or thorough compilation.

Makko/ Tabu no ki
Makko is used in powdered form. Machillus Thunbergii (makko), is a evergreen tree that mostly grows in southeastern Asia. The part of the tree that is used is it’s bark, and then it is powdered. The scent is subtle, the weaker the odor, the higher the quality it is considered. This because it is not usually a ingredient that is used for it’s smell, although it does have a slight wood aroma. Makko is mixed with aromatic ingredients, it is flammable on it’s own, and this makes it work well as a additive for formulations that contain substances that can not burn or evenly on their own. It also can be formed into a trail, and aromatic ingredients maybe placed on top of it, so they can burn evenly and consistently. Incense trails are always placed in sand or ash, in a flame resistant bowl to prevent fires. Makko is used as a binder and adhesive/glue in cones and stick incense, it is also water soluble. It is called Tabu no ki occasionally.
Charcoal
Charcoal in the incense world has many forms. Sometimes charcoal is not viewed well to those who enjoy incense on a regular basis. The main reason for this is that charcoal has been utilized by some incense companies who want to cut expense corners, and the charcoal they obtain for bases in their incense is inferior, at times toxic. Firecracker punks are purchased and dipped/soaked in poor quality synthetic fragrance oils, and the punks come with a flammable additive (similar to lighter fluid) that is chemical and not meant to inhaled by humans indoors. These are mostly the culprits for the ”incense headaches” you hear about, or may have had. This type of charcoal is seen in sticks and cones.
However, not all charcoal based sticks and cones are bad or toxic. Some incense producers use more natural forms of charcoal, that do not contain hazardous chemicals to make them flammable. Also the oils placed in these are not cheap synthetics. Occasionally charcoal based sticks/cones are produced by reputable companies, and the scent materials used are natural essentiials, extracts and absolutes. The reasoning for this is that if a incense maker is trying to produce a pure botanical aroma, like a single note, it is easier and at times more appropriate to use a charcoal base, which has little scent, and they just add plants essential oils to it, thus producing a incense that smells close to precisely like the scent of the live plant, flower or other natural aromatic material. Examples would be when the scent goal is jasmine, rose or some other aroma that is desirable by itself. Still, some of these higher quality charcoals may put out a charcoal like after scent or background, and this is not pleasing to some.
Some incense producers use a mix of charcoal and another ingredient, like a wood powder to create a stick that is flammable but incorporates other fragrant solid ingredients. The ones mixed with natural materials are generally nice depending on your tastes. Unfortunately, there are some that utilize the flammable traits of charcoal and chose to use some other ingredient that is chemical. This is where you get a burning rubber.tar smell. So charcoals mixtures vary.
Charcoal discs or tablets are just for their burning abilities. They are placed on a surface that will prevent it from melting anything around them and burning other surfaces. Loose incense, kneaded incense/awaseko, bakhoor, or other aromatic materials can be placed on top of a tablet that has turned into a glowing coal, or some tablets are placed below a screen or non flammable surface, and the incense used is place on the screen/surface. The tablet or sometimes disc, heats the bottom of the screen/surface and the incense is heated. It is either gently heated or burned, but the effect is that the the incense may burn slowly, release it’s scent gradually, there is less smoke emitted, and/or this style of indirect burning prevents scorching of the incense.

Halmaddi
Ever hear that the Ol’ blue box (Shrinivas Sugandhalaya Satya Sai Baba Nag Champa) incense smelled better back in the day? Well it had more halmaddi oil. Halmaddi went up in price, and the plant dwindled a bit, so producers of nag champa incense reformulated the incense, excluding or lower the content of the halmaddi oil.
Alianthus Malabarica is the scientific name of the tree that halmaddi oil comes from. Halmaddi is similar in scent to plumeria flowers, in India, plumeria is know as champa, so you get Naga Champa incense. Also plumeria is sometimes considered the same as frangipani.
Halmaddi has the ability to absorb moisture from the air (hygroscopic), so if you stumble across a incense that has a good amount of this oil in it, you will notice that the incense is “wet” in texture and feel. It’s not a rule, but generally the dryer a champa incense is, the less halmaddi it contains.

Sandalwood Powder/Essential Oil
Sandalwood has many variations, purple, red, white, and yellow, but the most common title you may find it under issantalum album, it’s scientific name. Pterocarpus santalinus comes as red sandalwood, can be used as a colorant, but is not quite as aromatic as the santalum variations. Red sandalwood grows throughout southeastern Asia, may be endangered, and is actually in the pea family, Fabaceae.
Santalum album, a evergreen, is the one that is used for scent in incense and perfumery. Traditionally, the area of Mysore is where the best sandalwood is produced and grown, although it is getting or is rare in this area now due to over harvesting and it’s slower growth rate.The ever expanding human population and the need for more livable land has also helped threaten the species. Santalum can also be found in Indonesia, Sri lanka, the northern part of Australia, and throughout the rest of southeastern Asia. It used to be used it woodworking, but because of it’s current position, it is now mostly just harvested for it’s oil and the wood that is collected, is powdered or chipped. The aroma of this form of sandalwood is creamy, woody, and rich. Just in single note form it can be unisex scent, although when mixed with scents it lean towards one gender. If it is mixed with florals, like rose, it would come off as feminine and if it was mixed with patchouli and oakmoss it may seem masculine. Santalum album is frequent in natural perfumery and incense.
Santalum austrocaledonicum is a sandalwood that can be found in New Caledonia, and many say it is closer in scent and overall than Australia’s western sandalwood to East India sandalwood, santalum album. It’s oil and powder is considered a better substitute of Mysore or santalum album, since it is not as endangered, and is more plentiful at the time.
Santalum spicatum is also a sandalwood of Australia, it grows in the western part of the country. This sandalwood is fragrant, but it is not as similar to scent to santalum album as austrocaledonicum is. Either way it’s essential oil has a pleasant woody, balsamic and resinous aroma, making it acceptable in perfumery and incense. Like the other sandalwoods, it is a good alternative if one is concerned about price, and the endangerment of santalum album.
In incense, santalum album is the most desired and the most common sandalwood you will find. The powder is used in bases, and it is also dusted on some stick incenses after a mixture has been rolled onto a core. Sandalwood can be included in about any incense style or recipe. There are some sticks and cones that are mostly sandalwood, especially in Japanese senko sticks. It’s rich essential oil can be mixed with other ingredients for incense, or it can be added to the powder in incense recipes, to produce a stronger sandalwood scent when burned or heated. The oil is used regularly in perfumery.
When purchasing sandalwood powder and oil, it is important to know you are buying from a reliable seller, and that you are aware of which type of sandalwood you are obtaining. Sadly, it is not too rare for some oils and powders to be adulterated with other botanicals that may smell similar or in worst case scenario, low quality fake chemical imitations.
Some perfumes and eau de toilettes that you may recognize with sandalwood notes, real or imitation: Bill Blass, Calandre by Paco Rabanne, Creed Fleurs de Gardenia, V’E Versace, Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Lubin L de Lubi, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, Ivoire de Balmain, Penhaligon’s Hammam Bouquet, Boucheron by Boucheron,Black Phoenis Alchemy Lab’s The Sailor’s Den, Boadicea the Victorious Divine, Boadicea the Victorious Complex, Boadicea the Victorious Delicate, Serge Lutens Santal Blanc,Aftelier Shiso, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Brown Jenkin,and Gio by Giorgio Armani.

Amyris Essential Oil
Amyris, amyris balsamifera, is also called West Indian sandalwood, but it isn’t a sandalwood oil at all, this plant is actually in the rue family. Amyris essential oil is occasionally adopted into perfumery and incense as a much less expensive alternative to true sandalwood. Like santalum spicatum, it’s aroma is balsamic, but not as woody, and some say that it is not as pleasing to the nose as the other santalums used for their scents. In some cases, amyris is called candle wood, because it is said that the wood is so oil rich, that you can burn a piece like a candle. Amyris oil has been used as a imitation of sandalwood in soap making too, and is a bottom note. It blends well with a large number of other smells, some being geranium, orange, rose absolute, cypress, and patchouli. It grows in Haiti, the Caribbean, and the gulf of Mexico. It is mixed in sandalwood and vetiver oils to adulterate them sometimes. When it is not used specifically for a sandalwood substitution, it falls under flower note categories (even if the note is amyris wood at times) in perfumery, some you may find that have amyris notes are: BellyFlower’s Peace, Love and Amber (oil), Owari 02 by Odin New York, Mona di Orio Jabu, Givenchy Play Intense by Givenchy, Burberry Brit Sheer for Women, Frapin Terre de Sarment,Enemy by Nickel, Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut, and Pink Bouquet by Bronnley.

Ghee
Ghee is a incense ingredient that is seen in Indian incense and food, and various dhoops. It is a clarified butter, it does not have water or milk particles. Ghee has a high smoking point.I have seen it in one unique, but high quality natural perfume: Amberleah by Dabney Rose.

Ambrette Seed
Anbrette seed comes from the plant, abelmoschus moschatus. It is made into a essential oil, absolutes and concretes. It is sometimes called musk seed, because it has a musky aroma, and is accepted in perfumery and incense making as a decent and more humane alternative to true musk. It is also more affordable than real musk, and more easily attainable. Although it sometimes used as a replacement for animal musk, it’s aroma is not exact, because it has floral undertones, which musk does not. In perfumery it is considered a middle base note, and it mixes well with amyris, lavender, frankincense, spruce and peppermint, among a few. Although it is a little more simple for one to get ambrette than musk, it is valued as a higher quality perfume and incense ingredient. It is also considered a fixative, helping the other ingredients aromas to come through. It’s suggested that ambrette seed essential oil is stored, and left to age for awhile before use, ageing it will cause the scent to enrich. Ambrette seed oils that are on the market generally come out of India.
Here are some perfumes and eau de toilettes that feature ambrette as a note either as it’s self or as a musk substitutive : Sensual Embrace by JoAnne Bassett, Reminiscence Si Do, Bvlgari Au the Blanc, Donna Karan Iris, Rose the One by Dolce & Gabbana,Vera Wang Glam Princess, The Iceberg Fragrance For Men by Iceberg, Parfums DelRae Mythique, Soivohle Tobacco & Tulle, Kaffir by Anya’s Garden, Heeley Iris de Nuit, Genvieve Michael Storer, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Memory & Desire, Graines de Paradis by Sharini Parfums Naturels, 99 Regent Street by Hugh Parsons, and Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Arome d’Egypt.

Musk
True animal musk has a long and heavy history. Traditionally, animal musk is taken from a gland in the sac between the umbilicus and the genitals from various breeds of male musk deers in the genus, Moschus. Deer in this genus do not have antlers, and considered more primitive than most deer. The musk gland that they carry is used to attract females, secreting a odor that is attractive to them.Various cultures in history used, hunted,and traded for musk because the smell is also attractive to humans. It was thought to be an aphrodisiac, and was used extensively in perfumery for it’s animal scent and as a fixative.
Unfortunately, the population of musk deer became threatened because of over harvesting of the musk gland. Recently, there have been efforts to farm musk deer and take musk from the deer without killing it, these farms are usually in China, but the musk farmed from these more humane methods is thought to be not as pleasing in fragrance than the wild harvested musk. India, China, Tibet, Pakistan the Himalayans,Nepal and Siberia are just a few of the places that musk deer live, these areas being some of the larger producers of musk itself. Today, hunting musk deer for their musk is illegal in most areas, but poaching persists. Selling musk is a profitable business, and the higher the quality, the more the poachers make, and the demand is always high for true musk.
The African Civet, civettictis civetta, is a mammal located in sub-Saharan Africa. They are sometimes called civet cats, although they are not cats at all, or in the cat family. They contain musk in glands, and both genders secrete musk, but the gland is bigger in the male, so they are usually the primary source of musk for their species in perfumery. Civet musk has been a ingredient in incense and perfume for a hundreds of year, and fortunately, unlike the musk deer, civit musk is taken regularly when it is in captivity, their glands are milked for the scented secretions, and sold. This leaves the animal alive, and keeps from endangering the species.
Synthetic musk is also made specifically for perfumery, and other scent oriented business’s. Synthetic musk is also called white musk, and is used now more than true musk in perfumery, due to price and ethical reasons. There are various forms of imitation musks, some smell very close to real musk, some not so much, it is said that almost all fake musks don’t quite copy the animal-like note found in true musk. Some white musks are believed to be carcinogenic, and studies are still being done to produce the safest and most authentic smelling imitations.
For those that do not want to use real musk for whatever reason, price, availability, and/or ethics,but also do not like to include synthetics, there is a plant substitution. Ambrette seed is used frequently for perfumes or incense when a non animal musk is desired, because it smells similar, but it has floral notes in it as well.
There are still a few perfumes and colognes that contain animal musk or contain a imitation that is believable enough that they are not mistaken for normal musk substitutions,and are closer to scent to true musk, examples of animal musk notes in perfumery are : Amouage Silver Cristal, Jean Patou Amour Amour, Creed Sublime Vanille, Ramon Molvizar Luna, Krazy Krizia by Krizia, Mazzolari Fleurs d’Oranger, Topaze by Avon, Le Dix by Cristobal Balenciaga , Versace Blonde, Thierrry Mugler Miroir des Secrets, Basic Black by Bill Blass, Lorenzo Villoresi Musk, Hermes Voyage d’Hermes, Y by Yves Saint Laurent, Arabian Oud Black Musk Essence (oil), Ysatis by Givenchy,Madini Musk Gazelle, Sonoma Scent Studio’s Egyptian Musk, Chanel Chance, Dior Poison, and Trish McEvoy Snowdrop & Crystal Flowers.

Benzoin
Benzoin is usually found in resin form, or semi liquid, and is harvested from tree bark of trees from the genus Styrax. There is also a crystalline compound benzoin, which is not the same as benzoin used in perfumery and incense production. In perfumery, benzoin is considered a fixative, and in incense, you would probably see it in just about every style and it is not restricted as a ingredient to any one or more areas. You may see it in Japanese and Indian incense largely, and it lends a vanilla like fragrance with balsamic notes in perfumery. It is sometimes referred to as a gum,although it is not really a gum.
Siam and Sumatra are the two common benzoin resins that are available on the market. Siam is the sweeter of the two, and thought to be the more pleasant in scent and stronger in aroma. Benzoin adds a rich balsamic sweetness to incense, and once was referred to as “frankincense of Java” by Arabic traders because it was valued greatly.You may also come across “gum Benjamin”, this is just a different name for benzoin.
A resin called loban, is basically benzoin.Eau de toilettes or Perfumes that have benzoin/styrax notes naturally or imitative are : Boadicea the Victorious Delicate, Caron Bain de Caron, Prada Infusion d’Homme, Shiseido’s Nombre Noir, Patou Moment Supreme, L’Artisan Nuit de Tubereuse,Priestess of Alchemy Crown Chakra (body oil),
Maison Francis Kirkdjian Pour Le Soir Cologne, Giorgio Armani Onde Mystere, and Ed Hardy’s Hearts and Daggers.

Juniper
Juniper as an incense ingredient may be experienced in all types and regions, but you will likely see it more in incense that is Tibetan, Himalayan, Nepalese, South American, and Southwestern to Western North American. This is because the tree,in many varieties, grows naturally in those areas. Juniper is highly aromatic, being that it is a evergreen, it gives off a sweet evergreen scent, that some even say is similar to cinnamon. They are in the cypress family actually, in the genusJuniperus. Juniper has been harvested throughout history for it’s pleasant scent, and for culinary use. It is not uncommon for an incense to not only include juniper for it’s aroma, but for traditional medicinal reasons. It is believed in some cultures to ward off contagious diseases, help reduce anxiety, treat depression, sometimes as an aphrodisiac and as an allover purifier. Many parts of the tree are used, and scent will differ from one variety to another.The scent of juniper, even with large amount of types, is so distinct that one who is even a little familiar with the tree will be able to distinguish this particular evergreen from others, and even from a formulation that may contain other strong aromatics. It is not unusual to find juniper or juniper berries extracts/oils in perfumery either, especially in scented products for men. Juniper berry (not really a true berry, but a cone) can mix with decent amount of other botanicals, citrus, clary sage, benzoin, sandalwood, neroli, bergamot, lavender, oakmoss, and geranium are just small examples of it’s scent compatibility. You can find natural or imitation notes of Juniper in a some perfumes and eau de toilettes, a few being: Versace the Dreamer,Nocturne Alchemy Ra, Byredo Parfums Gypsy Water, Angela Flanders Oudh Noir, Pacifica Avalon Juniper, Evody Pommes d’Or, Samba Zipped Sport, and Rochas Audace Parfum Vintage.

Guggul
Sometimes spelled guggal, or called “gum” guggul, guggul is a resin. It comes from the mukul myrrh (commiphora mukul), which is a relative of the African myrrh. It is called Indian bdellium sometimes, and it is water soluble. It has been used in Ayurvedic medicine for a variety of ailments, like obesity and throat problems. There is a essential oil from this resin, and guggul has been used in perfumery. It’s scent is balsamic, sweet, and carries hints of vanilla. It is considered less bitter than traditional myrrhs found in Africa and Asia. This resin originates in India.

Labdanum
Sometimes called rock rose, or cistus, this ingredient is something you may stumble upon included in incense and perfumery products. It was used as a fragrant additive since times of old, and is utilized in today’s fragrance market too. It’s a very sticky dark resin, often it is sold in a lidded jar since it’s usually in a almost semi liquid form in it’s natural state. There is also an essential oil and a absolute of this resin. Labdanum comes from a flowering bush (Cistus ladanifer or cistus creticus), called a rock rose bush, and was produced in Crete. Although it is still produced in Crete (and some say the best is harvested there), you will see it mostly coming out of Spain now. Go here or hereor here for great summaries on the history and use of labdanum. Labdanum is compatible with a large list of scents, like lavender, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver,iris root,saffron, nutmeg, chamomile,storax, cardamom, and rose.
Labdanum is used often in perfumery, falling in many different categories, from traditional chypre’s to more green modern formulations. You will find notes of labdanum, naturally or artificially in the following perfumes/eau de toilettes: Aesop Mystra , Salvador Dali Black Sun, Carven Ma Griffe, Amouage Dia For Men, Amouage Gold Cristal For Women, Zirh Ikon, Le Labo Labdanum 18, Coco Chanel, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’a The Isle of Dead, Roja Dove Unspoken, Basala by Shiseido, Roja Dove Enslaved, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Skuld, Pacifica Spanish Amber, Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui, Boadicea the Victorious Complex, Caron Third Man, I Am King Sean John, Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche, and Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan.

Oak Moss Absolute or Raw
Oakmoss, like Labdanum, is usually a main in ingredient in perfumes in the fragrance concept Chypre ( French for Cyprus). It is actually not a moss at all, and is a absolute extract of a lichen ( Evernia Prunastri). The absolute is extracted by a solvent, and when buying, you may notice abundance of the absolute comes to the market from Yugoslavia. Oakmoss is only truly Oakmoss when the lichen that has been harvested comes off true oak bark, but a lot of the time oakmoss absolute comes from lichen that has been harvested from various types of trees, like certain fruit bearing trees, and their bark. This still produces a fragrant absolute, but when it is taken from a oak tree, the fragrance and quality is considered much better. Most Evernia prunastri grows wild in southern and central Europe. Another issue with commercial oak moss absolute, is that sometimes the absolute is adulterated with other wood oils, like fir, or spruce essential oils. Oakmoss is used in incense, but you will see it most often in perfumes and especially colognes. It has been a ingredient in incense and perfumery through out history, people used the raw lichen in mixtures. Oakmoss has a very deep earthy aroma, rich and mossy, used as a fixative.You may also see it in soaps and lotions.Oak moss absolute has had some research done on it’s effects on the human body, and it is thought that people should use caution with the amounts of the oil on skin, and people with epilepsy should use extra caution to avoid seizures.
Oakmoss is used widely in perfumery and you may find notes of oakmoss in the following eau de toilettes/perfumes: Caron Coup de Fouet, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Greed, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Two Monsters, Laura Biagiotti Roma, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Twelfth Night, Calvin Klein CK One, Guerlain Heritage, First by Van Cleef & Arpels, Libertine Vivienne Westwood, Miss Dior by Dior,Nocturne Alchemy Anubis, Century 03 by Odin New York, Kingdom by Alexander McQueen, Lalique Perles de Lalique, Coty Chypre Parfum, Chanel Cristalle, Estee Lauder Alliage, and Clinique Aromatics Elixir.

Orris Root
Florentine iris is a variety of iris pallida, which is orris root. It is also called garden iris, Fleur de lis , and bearded iris. Orris root is basically iris, and is used in perfumery and incense. The rhizomes are dug (root) up, peeled, and made into a concrete, powder, CO2 extract and a absolute. The plant grows near Florence, Italy, and the Mediterranean in general, however, it is not uncommon to see its various forms (concretes, absolutes, etc) commercially sold with it’s origins coming from India. Orris root, although it’s extractions are from the rhizomes, and not the flower, are described in scent as violet-like. The cost of the concrete, absolute, and CO2 is higher than most. Sometimes the scent of orris root in perfumery is described as woody-floral, you may see it in high end perfume formulations. In incense, it is usually used in lower quantities due to it’s higher price range. The iris was once the symbol of the French monarchy, it was the inspiration for the original scepter, it was on the banner Joan of Arc carried, it was prized by the Arabs, it is the symbol of Florence, Italy, and the Fleur de lys is a used for New Orleans as a symbol.
Orris root blends well with most florals, like rose, and geranium. It also is compatible in scent with various woods, like sandalwoods and cedars, along with resinous labdanum. It’s scientific name is Iris germanica.
Perfumes and eau de toilettes with notes of orris root: Orris Root by D.S Durga, Amouage Dia For Men,Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Rapunzel,Soivohle Misetu, Keiko Mecheri Iris Pourpre, Prada Iris Parfum,Nocturne Alchemy Ramesses, Donna Karan Iris, Hilde Soliani Iris, and Parfums DelRae Mythique.

Myrrh
Myrrh has a long, long history, enough that a decent sized volume could be written just on it’s cultural impact. The main myrrh resin comes from Commiphora Myrrha, a tree that grows in Yemen, Somalia, Ethiopia, and various parts of Africa. The Egyptians brought massive amounts of myrrh from their trades with other cultures to their homeland as early as 3000 BCE. It was and still is used in perfumery and as a incense ingredient or by itself. Churches use it along with frankincense, and it was mentioned as a gift in the story of Jesus’s birth. It was prized in Persia for it’s scent.The Judeo-Christian God told Moses to create a holy anointing oil with myrrh. Although myrrh was in no way limited in it’s involvement in stories to monotheistic religions, it was very much a active piece in pagan mythologies.
Myrrh is also found in toothpaste and mouthwash. Because of it’s natural reddish-brown color, it is used a natural colorant. It also has medicinal uses, it helps hormone imbalances, skin problems, and chest problems. It should be noted that the essential oil should not be taken internally. It also is has a place in Chinese medicine and Ayurvedic practices. The Egyptians made myrrh apart of their cosmetic preparations, it was thought to improve the complexion.
Some people don’t care for myrrh as a incense on its own, the smell is strong and can be unpleasant to some. It is traditionally mixed with frankincense, and other resins. In perfumery myrrh is often included as a base in perfumes that fall under the category as oriental.Myrrh’s aroma is described as balsamic, amber-like, pungent, resinous, and spicy. It also is seen in a floral perfumes.
Guggul has been sold as myrrh, or as a alternative to myrrh. Bdellium is said to be a member of the Commiphora group, and is used as myrrh. Commiphora erythraea, or East Indian myrrh as it used to be called, was sold as myrrh, (sometimes known as perfumed bdellium by the Arabs), although some have said its aroma is similar to fungus. Various species ofCommiphora yield myrrh or sap resin that is myrrh-like.
Perfume or eau de toilettes you may find that have myrrh notes naturally or imitated are : L’Artisan Al Oudh, Amouage Gold Cristal For Men, Baccarat Les Larmes Sacrees de Thebes, Jovan Frankincense & Myrrh Cologne, Soivohle Grand Canyon, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Cathedral,Tesori d’Oriente Mirra, Avon Christian Lacrois Absynthe, and L’Erbolario Meharees.

Essential oils, Absolutes, Concretes, CO2 Extracts, Enfleurages, Attars, Ruhs, and Hydrosols
All of these are utilized in perfumery and incense production. If it’s fragrant and can be made into any of these, than it can be used in the arts of scent. People have used these forms of extraction of botanical scent for ages, the exception being the ones, like CO2 extracts, that require modern technologies and chemicals to be created.
Attars- These are similar to essential oils, but are thought to not hold the botanical or medicinal properties, so it is not beneficial for anything other than things that involve scent, like perfumes and incense.The process of making an attar destroys these properties, since the production requires heat. I have seen other opinions about attars, where it is said that a attar is just as beneficial and keeps the plants properties if not better than essential oil. Attars are made by placing flowers or aromatic botanicals in a a vessel, usually copper, that contains water and a fire is let under the vessel. There are pipes that are attached to the vessel, usually bamboo pipes, and they run into a receiver vessel that contains sandalwood oils. As the original vessel heats, it produces vapors that travel to the receiver vessel (which sits below the original vessel). The vapors condense, the oils and the water separate after a day, and this lets the sandalwood mix/absorb the molecules of the contents of the condensation. The water is taken out, then more water is added back, this goes on for more than two weeks, until the the sandalwood is strongly drenched in the original plant’s odor. The end result is a highly aromatic oil, with the essence of the flower or aromatic material and sandalwood. Caution should be taken when buying attars because some producers adulterate the sandalwood with paraffin to cut costs, or you get straight synthetics. Attars are like essential oils in another sense, essential oils are expected to be completely natural, are usually monitored for quality, and authenticity. With attars, these standards are not put upon the producers and sellers, at least not in the western part of the world. So unfortunately, a product can be called an attar, and it isn’t. Dont let this deter you from trying attars though, if you buy from a reputable seller/producer, you can experience a product with a wonderful aroma, and a great addition to any incense crafter/perfumer’s work.
Ruhs- Ruhs are also similar too essential oils, and very much like attars. The creation process is similar to attars, but instead there is no sandalwood oil. The same stated about attars containing just as much if not more qualities and benefits than essential oil, is stated about ruhs. Either way, ruhs are highly aromatic, and are nice included in perfumes and incense.
Essential Oils- Most people are familiar with these. They are oils are taken from a plant through steam distillation, usually.Each plant carries various properties, and their essential oil is the concentrated liquid of the plant’s properties. Essential oils contain the plant’s aroma, and are used frequently in a range of industries. Mostly, they are used in natural medicine, aromatherapy, perfumery, incense production, and cosmetics. In incense, you must be careful because n mixtures, the oils can evaporate over time. There have been times when a incense has not been used for several months, and when lit for use, the aroma has become extremely weak because of oil evaporation.
Absolutes- These are oil or oil based, and involve a solvent. Bark,roots,flowers or whatever aromatic part of a plant is placed in a drum, with a solvent, like hexane. After the solvent extracts the plant’s aromatic, and whatever other properties it can, the plant material is removed. This leaves a resinous concrete behind, which is then taken and added to alcohol, which “cleans” the concrete off. The bulkier parts, like the plant’s waxes, are cleared away by the alcohol, and the remainder is the plant’s absolute oil.
Absolutes, like essential oils, are used in natural medicine and aromatherapy. But it’s main usage is in the perfume industry, and they can be applied in incense recipes.
Concretes- These are made like absolutes. Except the waxes are not removed, and there is no alcohol. When the solvent, hexane, has extracted the plant’s properties and aroma, their is a concrete left. The plant’s hydrocarbon matter is left basically. They have been utilized in the perfume industry, and sometimes incense makers have used this. Generally, concretes are in the higher price range.
CO2 Extracts- These come two forms. Cold, low pressure CO2, which is in a liquid state when it is created, and hot, higher pressure CO2, that is fog like in the creation process. The cold method is considered to produce the best CO2 extraction. As far as botanical fragrances that are solvent extracted, CO2 is the more desirable, since it leaves no residues or toxins. CO2 extractions produce a cleaner aroma, since it the result is purer than essential oils, and so when smelling a CO2, you are smelling the plant’s natural state, and you don’t get any scent from a solvent. Co2′s are used in natural body care and in natural perfumery.
Enfleurage- This is a old method. Basically, a plant is placed on a odorless fat, like palm, jojoba, or unscented coconut oil, and after certain amount of time, the surrounding fat absorbs the fragrance. Sometimes to get a stronger or more authentic aroma, the plant material is replaced with fresh plant material repeatedly, until the scent desired is attained. This is a method that is good for certain plants that can not withstand most extraction techniques, like honeysuckle and wisteria.
Hydrosols-These are sometimes called distillates or floral waters.They are a by-product of the distillation of essential oils. The water used and leftover in the steam distillation process is called hydrosol. They are used in natural skincare products, as the water in the process of making a batter for incense, (like in dhoop,stick and cone mixtures), and sometimes in perfumery. Since it is said to keep the plant’s properties, it is a mainstay ingredient in the natural cosmetics industry.

Galbanum
Galbanum, on the current market, is a resin gum from different species of Ferula, most notably Ferula galbaniflua andFerula rubricaulis. F. galbaniflua grows in Afghanistan and Northern India, although you will likely see it coming from Iran and Turkey these days.It is related to Asafoetida, but they are not similar in scent to eachother, and it is in Fennel family In generally grew throughout all of the Northern Persian area, and F. rubricaulis grew mostly in Southern Persia area. You will find this sold in resin form, although it’s a very soft resin, and in essential oil form. The essential oil is sharper, galbanum has a very green scent, and in it’s essential oil, this note is intensified. Some may not find the essential oil as pleasing to the nose as the resin. Galbanum is mentioned in the bible as a fragrance, and was used through out history for perfumery and incense. Some people pick up evergreen or pine notes in galbanum, along with a balsamic aroma. And has been described as earthy,rich, and spicy. It’s texture in resin form, is similar to molasses, but thicker.
Galbanum has a decent sized range of medicinal uses, examples being as a topical treatment for skin ailments, asthma, and as a expectorant. It has no use cosmetically so far.
Egyptians would buy or trade for large amounts of the resin, and would bring it back to their homeland for perfumery and incense.
Galbanum mixes well with Frankincense, guggul,rose, lavender and pine. Perfumes or eau de toilettes that have galbanum naturally or galbanum notes in them are: Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio, Parfumerie Generale Bois Blond, Shiseido Ginza (very rare), and the original version of Monk Storer’s, Monk-A Scent For Men.

Elemi Essential Oil/Resin
Elemi (Canarium luzonicum) tree resin is distilled and produces a essential oil that has a balsam and lemon like fragrance that is used in aromatherapy,incense and perfumery. It also is used as a antiseptic, and the essential oil is utilized in the cosmetic industry for wrinkle treatments. The resin, which has a sweeter honey like aroma compared to the essential oil is mixed in incense formulations. The tree is native to Philippines, but that did not limit it’s distribution to only there and surrounding areas. The Egyptians used elemi for embalming, and has been in high demand in India markets for awhile. The resin comes in three grades, the harder resins are lower in grade, and the softer resin is higher grade because it produces essential oil easier and of better quality. Other trees in the same family produce a resin that are sometimes called elemi too, but generally those are sold more often in their local area, and not on the commercial market. The one that perfumers and incense producers are familiar with is referred to as Manila elemi (C.luzonicum), and the resin is usually a pale yellow. Sometimes in the past, elemi was used as a replacement for frankincense and myrrh (due to price or availability) , although the aroma is very much it’s own, and it is easy to distinguish elemi from these other resins. The elemi tree is tapped for it’s resin and the sap /resin is collected about every two weeks.
Elemi’s aroma mingles and mixes well with frankincense,rosewood, lavender, bergamot, labdanum, galbanum, melissa, ylang ylang, jasmine,rose and sandalwood.Elemi has a lemon balm scent at times, and you may pick up that quality in perfumes and colognes, other times it has a scent that is unique to itself. You may find notes of elemi, real or imitation in the following perfumes/toilettes: Pacifica Spanish Amber, Aveda Chakra 7 Bliss, Hermes Eau des Merveilles, Tallulah by Tallulah Jane, Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme, 1740 Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums, Full Incense by Montale, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Lyonesse ,Guaiac by Red Flower Organic Perfume, JoAnne Bassett Sacred Incense, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Grandfather Death, Byredo Chembur, Si Lolita by Lolita Lempicka, Marc Jacobs Bang, Piper Nigrum by Lorenzo Villoresi, Orchidee Blanche by Acorelle, Tirrenico Profumi del Forte, Pink Happiness Revlon, and The Body Shop White Musk Breeze.

Bergamot
Bergamot can refer to two general plants (Citrus bergamia ) or those that fit under the flower species Monarda,sometimes called Bee Balm. Although bee balm bergamot is used in a variety of natural industries, the one that this description will be focusing on is the citrus version.
Bergamot is a citrus fruit, and the oil is taken from the fruit. The name , Bergamot, has two sources, or two different theories on it’s name origin. The first, more widely known theory is that it got it’s name from the Italian city in Lombardy, Bergamo, although it’s said the fruit bearing tree did not even grow there. The second belief is that Bergamot got it’s name from the Turkish word for prince’s pear, beg-armudi. They both seem like viable theories. A majority of bergamot essential oil comes from California or Italy, although it is originally native to south Asia.
Bergamot is mostly seen in perfumery, but can also be seen in incense, or scented candles. It’s a definite fixture in aromatherapy, it is thought to help treat depression.
Bergamot has a the traditional citrus note, but it also has a lovely floral aroma that is similar to neroli. Bergamot is a good alternative to neroli if one can not obtain or afford neroli. Bergamot is a top note in perfumery and blends well with other citruses, elemi, labdanum, lavender, black pepper, nutmeg, vetiver, rosemary, sandalwood, ylang ylang, jasmine, geranium, frankincense, cypress, clary sage, rose, and juniper. You can catch notes of bergamot in the following perfumes and eau de toilettes : Ormonde Jayne Zizan, Chanel No.5, Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely, Elizabeth Arden 5th Avenue, Creed Sublime Vanille, Pacifica Spanish Amber, Pacifica Egyptian Bergamot Rose, Linari Vista Sul Mare, Dior Fahrenheit, Christian Dior Ambre Nuit, Guerlain Mitsouko, Laura Biagiotti Roma,Nocturne Alchemy Sobek, Weil Pour Homme, Vera Wang Rock Princess, Avon Spotlight, Boadicea the Victorious Noble, Queen by Queen Latifah, Versace Versense, Michael Kors Island, Flowerbomb by Viktor&Rolf, Canturi, Dior Pure Poison, La Perla J’Aime, Solange Stoned, Givenchy Pi Neo, JoAnne Bassett Rich Leather, and Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum.

Tomato Leaf
Tomato leaf extract, and absolute along with the raw plant itself, has been recently appearing on ingredient lists of perfume bottles and incense packaging. It is taken from the fruit bearing tomato plant, and then placed in a solvent, such as hexane, to create a absolute. The end product is a liquid that smells similar to the tomato fruit, but greener, and less likely to fall into gourmand or fruity categories. The raw plant leaf can be used in incense mixtures.It is considered a middle note. Tomato leaf mixes well with a large amount of other botanicals, just a few that scratch the surface on it’s wide range are: black currant, lemongrass, orange blossom, basil, sandalwood, musk, jasmine, and birch.Some perfumes you may find tomato leaf in are: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s The Jersey Devil, Annick Goutal Passion, Sisley Eau de Campagne, Hilde Soliani Teatro Olfattivo Di Parma, Stecca, Molinard Une Souris Verte, Lorenzo Villoresi Spezie, Molyneux Modern Quartz, Halston Unbound, Avon Olivier Strelli, Memory of Kindness CB I Hate Perfume, Emilio Pucci Sole 149, and Nina Ricci Liberty Fizz.

Lavender
Lavender (Lavandula officinalis) has such a huge range of usage in various industries that it’s no wonder that even the individual that is unfamiliar with most true botanical aromas can recognize the purple plant’s scent. Lavender graces the formulas of baby products because of it’s gentle properties, one it’s ability to aid in relaxation and has pleasant floral smell, and you will see it in soaps and cosmetics.Lavender is used in soothing balms and herbal medicine, it can treat minor burns. It is used in aromatherapy to treat depression and anxiety. Lavender is almost a jack of all trades, including being used in perfumery and incense. Lavender’s popularity is so great that not only is it a regular in modern gardens, grown on many farms as a crop, and worn as a single note perfume by some, there are festivals dedicated to it. These festivals take place at various times of the year, celebrating the qualities of this versatile flora, some notable celebrations are the following: Lavender Festival Burnsville NC, Sequim Lavender Festival WA, Blanco Lavender Festival TX, Lavender Festival Fairfield PA, Ohio Lavender Festival Streetsboro Ohio, and Provence Lavender Festival France.That was a tiny example of lavender festivals.
Lavender essential oil generally just plain Lavandula angustifolia but there are variations and hybrids. There are lavender essential oils that may be more concerntrated, and may be labeled lavender select, extra,40/42(this is sometimes a blend of different lavender essential oils together) or super. There are also different types like French or Spanish lavender (Lavandula dentata) which is considered more floral and to some more pleasant. This lavender may pop up in perfumes and single note incense. There is Bulgarian lavender which falls into basic Lavandula angustifolia (a large number of lavender essential oil on the market is Bulgarian lavender) and is considered more crisp in scent. English lavender falls under L. angustifolia too, but is said to be sweeter and some say the plant is good as a ornamental shrub in a garden. High altitude grown lavenders, usually from the French Alps, are thought to be the most fragrant, they have various titles, such as Highland, High Alpine, Alpine,or French Alpine lavender. Spike lavender, Lavandula latifolia is a less cold tolerant but sharper in scent lavender and is sometimes not considered a true lavender. Maillette lavender is another of the L. angustifolia variety, some even call it the “true” lavender although I’ve heard spike lavender called this too, and called classic lavender. Maillette lavender is very aromatic and is grown in Europe. The lavender that is Maillette has intense blue flowers and has a floral herbal smell. Some other lavenders you may see are, Australian, Cape (South African), Mont Blanc, Croatian , and Barreme. There i0s also a Spanish lavender that may be different than the French lavender that is sometimes called Spanish lavender too. It falls under L. stoechas and yields more essential oil than others.
Lavandin (Lavandula intermedia) is a hybrid lavender, specifically created to produce more oils. It appeared around the 1820′s and is believed to be a cross between English and Spike lavender. It has different varieties, like L. angustifolia, some are Alba, Super, Grosso, and Abrialis lavandin . Unfortunately, lavandin isn’t considered as a quality lavender, but some farms are growing crops that have raised the level on the quality. Lavandin also is sold as 40/42 lavender at times, although that is a bit misleading. Lavandin is used in incense and perfumery, since it is mainly produced for scent, it has been used for head colds, but it is not known as a a decent alternative to lavender in natural medicine. It’s aroma differs to lavender’s, as it is more camphor like in scent.
There is also lavender Seville, Lavandula luisieri (found in absolute form too) which has a odd green note, similar to lavender, but different at the same time.
Lavender is a evergreen shrub and is in the mint family.
Lavender blends well with clary sage, vanilla, chamomile, bergamot, citrus in general, geranium, rosemary, pine, thyme, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rosewood and bay. Many perfumes and eau de toilettes have lavender as a note some of them are: Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely, Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio, Patou Pour Homme Prive, Lacoste Challenge, Parfums de Nicolai Patchouli Homme, Guerlain Jicky, Dior Homme Sport, Versace Blue Jeans, Weil Pour Homme, Jo Malone Amber & Lavender, Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Creed Royal Scottish Lavender, Davidoff Cool Water, Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s The Scales of Deprivation, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Death on a Pale Horse, Gucci Rush for Men, Vera Wang Bouquet, Mona di Orio Chamarre,Nocturne Alchemy Blue Egypt, Lanvin L’Homme Sport, Burberry London for Men, and Oscar de la Renta Oscar.

Jasmine
Jasmine ( Jasminum ) is a flowering plant that is used in various ways, but mostly in perfumery and incense because of it’s incredible aroma. There are around twenty to thirty varieties of jasmine, and jasmine shrubs, trees, and vines. The main jasmine varieties used in perfumery and incense, are J. grandiflorum , J. sambac, and one to be newer to the commercial market, J. auriculatum. Jasmine has been used for hundreds of years, a majority of species thrive in India. China and Western Asia. These richly beautiful and fragrant flowers are high in demand and their oils/absolutes are high in price. Jasmine has inspired poetry, art and literature throughout the ages, there are even festivals dedicated to the aroma of jasmine.A example would be in Grasse, France, when the Fete du Jasmin annually takes place in August, a festival involving flower floats and jasmine water lightly onto the festival onlooker. Grasse is a perfumery industry hub in France, so the celebration makes sense.
Jasmine grandiflorum is also called morning blooming jasmine, royal jasmine, and Spanish jasmine. The aroma is said to be floral, bright, and even seductive. It is thought to be a aphrodisiac in some cultures.You can find this in absolute, oleoresin,concrete, distillate, enfleurage,CO2,essential oil (this has been debated, some say that there is no way to make a true jasmine essential oil), and extract form. This is probably the most used of jasmines in the perfumery business.This jasmine blooms at dawn.
Jasmine sambac blooms at night, closing it’s petals at sunrise. Sometimes called Arabian jasmine or night blooming jasmine, this is a jasmine that is also very popular in perfumery and incense formulas. This flower grows in many areas, especially India and southern Asia. J. sambac is the national flower of Indonesia and the Republic of the Philippines. There are also variations of sambac that are grown in gardens, these being the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Maid of Orleans, Arabian Nights, Belle of India, Grand Duke Supreme, Mysore Mulli, and Malichat (from Thailand). Hawaiian pikake flower leis are actually J. sambac blossoms. Occasionally sambac absolutes will come out of Egypt. Although very floral, the aroma of J.sambac is described as a little lighter,,sweeter and sometimes it is considered to have a more masculine musky scent compared to J. grandiflorum, which is considered a very feminine aroma. Jasminum sambac is a middle note in perfumery and mixes with with a large array of scents, (these apply to J.grandiflorum too) a few being rose, ylang ylang, frankincense, geranium melissa ,bergamot, and sandalwood.
Jasminum auriculatum is also known as juhi. Juhi is a good deal different in scent than the other two jasmines, being that it is more fruity in scent, but it still carries the characteristic jasmine floral scent. Juhi is used in perfumery, incense, and cosmetics. A good example of juhi’s interesting scent would be Bhim Lama’s Juhi Flowers, a dry dhoop incense from Nepal.This jasmine has said to have a similar aroma to gardenias at times. A perfume to check out if you want to smell juhi flowers, is Tigerflag Natural Perfumery’s Natural Juhi Perfume.
Jasmine is expensive as far as buying a oil absolute because like roses, it takes thousands of flowers to achieve about 1ml.
Thats a whole lot of flowers, and a whole of work. Jasmine notes can be found in the following perfumes/eau de toilettes: Susanne Lang Midnight Orchid, Chanel No.5, Joanne Bassett Contessa, Gianni Versace Couture,Annick Goutal Passion,Creed Spring Flower, Marc Jacobs Daisy, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s The Obsidian Widow, Joanne Bassett Magie d’Or, Grossmith Shem-el-Nessim , Grossmith Hasu-no-Hana, Estee Lauder Sensuous, Givenchy Ange Ou Demon Le Secret, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Black Dahlia, Aquolina Tweety, Chopard Casmir, Guerlain Samsara,Tom Ford Black Orchid, and Solange Cosmic.

Lotus
Lotus (Nelumbo) is one of the most beloved flowers in South Asia, you may see them planted around temples of Buddha. It’s a important flower in Hinduism and ancient Egyptian religions as well. This comes in various shades, the most common that you will see included in product ingredients would be blue, pink, or white. Lotus grows throughout India, the Middle East, Asia and Australia, and in each of those cultures and regions, the lotus is held in some sort of high esteem. The seeds are a culinary delicacy, and the flower can be made into a tea that helps relieve rheumatism. The lotus is a aquatic plant that seems to float in water, with it’s roots in the water (actually they enter the soil below), a almost ethereal image, much like water lilies. The scent of the lotus is valued highly in perfumery and incense, having a deep,rich aroma. It’s scent is floral, but unique to itself at the same time. In most cases, once someone smells the scent of a lotus, they will be able to distinguish it easily from other floral essences in the future. The lotus is related to water lilies, one of the differences between water lilies and lotuses is that the water lilies rest on top of the water and the lotuses leaves rise slightly above the water. In China, the lotus represented purity.Although the scent of lotus is much loved the world over, some may not be as crazy about it. The scent of a pure lotus extract can also differ greatly from itself because like other plants, but in a sense more so, the lotus aroma is influenced by it’s environment. That is why you can come across a authentic blue lotus absolute, for example, and the scent is floral, crisp and bright, and later smell a different batch or distributer of another authentic blue lotus absolute, and its aroma is spontaneous, murky,and slightly greener.
Blue Lotus (Nelumbo caerulea or Nymphaea caerulea) is a much favored addition to incense and perfumery. The scent is said to be penetrating, exotic and sultry. You will usually find this in absolute, extract,attar, or CO2 form. The blue lotus grew wild in the Nile, and is the lotus that you see in ancient Egyptian artwork. It grows in Africa, Thailand, and India, for production and sell. There is a theory that blue lotus taken internally can cause a state similar to a drug induced euphoria.
You can catch notes of the heavenly blue lotus in the following perfumes/eau de toilettes: Bijan Wicked, Aftelier Lumiere,Romea D’Ameor The Taj Mahal’s Eternal Love, Scents of Time Nenufar, Trish McEvoy Trish, Lavanila Laboratories Vanilla Passion Fruit, Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Intense Cologne, Roger & Gallet Eau de Lotus Bleu, and Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Bois.
Pink lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) is a exotic and wonderful floral ingredient in perfumery/incense. You will see pink lotus more in perfumery than incense. Described as a regal,queenly aroma, it can be slightly more floral than the other lotuses or it can be described as more herbal than the others, it just depends on how a nose perceives it. Pink lotus grows in India, Egypt, Africa, and Asia, either wildly or cultivated. The plant is edible, the seeds eaten, the petals made into a tea. The pink lotus is considered the most important lotus, sort of a queen of the lotuses. When wanting to purchase a pure extract of this lotus, look for the same forms or extraction methods as blue lotus comes in, CO2,absolute, attar, or extract. ou may catch hints and notes of pink lotus in theses perfumes/eau de toilettes: Ayala Moriel Hanami, DSH Perfumes Padme Lotus,Soivohle Love Speaks Primeval, Ayala Moriel I’Ecume des Jours, Essentially Me White Blooms, Essentially Me Kuan Yin, Aftelier Pink Lotus, and Good Clean Love Pink Lotus.
White lotus is also a variety of Nelumbo nucifera . The white lotus scent is said not to be as sharp as the blue lotus, and less floral than the pink, but still enchanting, not in any way inferior. White lotus, like the others has a aroma all it’s own. This lotus blooms at night, showing off milky petals larger than the blue. There are darker notes in white lotus, and a depth that can be hard to describe.There is a lot of symbolism regarding the white lotus, stemming from the fact that the white lotus comes up clean and pure looking from the muddy dark pond. You will come across it’s notes in perfumery more than in incense.Some perfumes/eau de toilettes that have notes of white lotus: Anya’s Garden Pan, Comptoir Sud Pacifique Eau de Lagons, Soivohle Misetu, DSH Perfumes Padme Lotus, CB I Hate Perfume Cradle of Light, Agent Provocateur Maitresse, Kenzo KenzoKi White Lotus, TigerFlag White Lotus Attar, Jasper Conran Mistress, Liz Clairborne Curve Soul, Ajne Lakshmi, and Ganesha’s Garden Botanical Body Scent White Lotus (perfume solid).

Violet Leaf Absolute
Violet leaf absolute (Viola odorata) has become a perfumer’s specialty oil recently, and is not often incorporated in incense. Since it is the leaf not the flower that is solvent extracted into an absolute, the aroma is green-herbaceous not floral. Many perfumes are utilizing this sometimes pricey absolute.
A little note of interest: There used to be a Violet FLOWER Absolute, that was taken from Parma violets, around the turn of the twentieth century. Violet perfumes were very popular in France and America, the aroma was described as very floral. The production of the absolute stopped when cheaper synthetic identical replacements were offered, and since the production of the flowers were already expensive, the creation of the absolute basically died. It still would be very expensive to create violet flower absolute, so violet flower accords are made by adding orris root concretes/butters/C02 to floral oils. Orris root (iris) gets his wonderful aroma because he contains irones/ionones, and so do violet flowers, so it is no wonder that orris root is described as violet-like, and this makes it a excellent additive to perfumes when trying to match a violet note. And although orris root extracts can be pricey, the flower absolute of violets was much more expensive.
Violet leaf notes can be found in the following perfumes/ eau de toilettes:Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Brusque Violet, Tammy Frazer Idiom, The Scented Djinn Serj Eau de Parfum, Isabelle Gelle Parfum Voyage, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Quinacridone Violet, Annick Goutal La Violette, Etat Libre d’Orange Delicious Closet Queen, Narciso Rodriguez Musc for Him, Bellyflowers Verdigris, Coeur d’Esprit Natural Perfume Charmed, For Strange Women Violet, Soivohle Purple Love Smoke, Marc Jacobs Daisy, Tim McGraw Southern Blend, Armand Basi In Red, Vireo Perfumes Coco Violette,Sonoma Scent Studio Wood Violet, DSQUARED He Wood, and Heeley Cedre Blanc.

Tuberose Absolute/Concrete
Tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa) absolute is a fine perfumery ingredient. Tuberose originally grew in pre-Columbian Mexico, and was loved by the people there. When the rest of the world caught on to the exquisite aroma of the tuberose, it was made popular, but catching the aromatic essence proved to be difficult. In the nineteenth century France, Jacques Passy found a way to trap the scent of flowers that refused to be extracted in all the conventional methods, he created what is known as enfleurage. He discovered that by putting fragrant botanicals, like jasmine, on a layer of lard, and made the container airtight, that after weeks of adding flowers, removing them repeatedly and adding more, eventually the lard would be impregnated with the flowers true aroma. This was the way of tuberose. Perfumers were finally able to work with a material that had the flowers sweet scent. Then solvent extraction came to be, and tuberose could be extracted in this way also. Eventually we would see the end of enfleurages made for sell, and would have to embrace either the absolute, which was concentrated and even more useful to perfumery now, or the cheaper synthetics that came not from nature. Tuberose is very floral, and has been described as honey sweet and having a narcotic aroma. Tuberose blend best with just about anything, especially other fine florals, and notes that are spicy.Tuberose is a middle note. The absolute or the concrete is very expensive.
If you are looking for perfumes or eau de toilettes that have tuberose notes, here is a short listing of them: Aftelier Cepes and Tuberose Parfum, Prada Tubereuse Parfum, AbdesSalaam Attar Tuberosa, AbdesSallaam Gipsy Queen, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Flora, Guerlain Precious Heart, Grossmith Phul-Nana, Jean Patou Joy, Kashaya de Kenzo, Laura Mercier Nuits Enchantees, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Carnaval Diabolique, Serge Lutens Fleurs d’Oranger,Chanel No.22, Serge Lutens Datura Noir, Annick Goutal Passion, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s The Witch Queen, Heeley Ophelia, Tom Ford Private Blend Velvet Gardenia, Mariah Carey Forever, Tiffany Truest, L’Artisan Fleur de Liane, and Givenchy Amarige.

Star Jasmine (Trachelosperum jasminoides) and Confederate Jasmine (Trachelosperum Asiaticum)-These “jasmines” are not jasmines at all, but carry a very potent scent that smells very similar to jasmine, in some cases they smell more of gardenias.They also look very similar to jasmine. Star or Asian jasmine is Trachelosperum Asiaticum, and Confederate is Trachelosperum Jasminoides, however sometimes I have seen the Star jasmine noted as T. jasminoides also. Sometimes certain true jasmines, are also called star, like Jasminum Nitidum (also called Angelwing Jasmine), what makes it even trickier is that the flowers of “Star Jasmine” looks very much like J. Nitidum’s flowers too. To me, Trachelosperums have a very light indole note, which most true jasmines also carry in higher amounts. Star and Confederate are actually native to parts of Asia, but have become an ornamental plant in North America, growing wild in some warmer parts. Trachelosperum flowers are evergreen, we have found them hardier in potted plants than true jasmines. There scent has been described as intoxicating, white floral, gardenia, night blooming jasmine-like, magnolia, bittersweet,heavy, and narcotic. The flowers of the confederate are white with a tiny circle of lemon yellow in the mouth of the flower, the petals bend in the same direction, which gives them a pinwheel look. The Star has more petals, and resembles the true angelwing jasmine. The foliage is dark green, the star is bushier, but the confederate is more vine-like. I have not seen these flowers in essential oil, absolute, co2, enfleurage, or phytonic extraction form, however the scent is utilized in some traditional Chinese incense and some perfumers tincture it for perfumery.I have seen synthetic fragrance oils that are based off these flowers, and a headspace analysis has been done of it. I do not know the safety of it, but I do know that one should be very careful when interacting with “jasmines” that are not really jasmines. The South Carolina state flower is called ‘Carolina Jasmine/Jessamine”,a yellow petaled flower, but is not a true jasmine, it is really Gelsemium Sempervirens, and is extremely fragrant and extremely posionous in every part of the plant, so it is not suitable for incense or perfumery. while we are pretty sure here at the Haus that some perfumes carry notes of Trachelosperum flowers, naturally or synthetic, we have not found any to list here.