It’s been quite awhile, but I am so very fortunate to have recently recieved some wonderful perfume samples from very talented perfumers and some raw aromatics from reputable sources. I can tell it’s going to be an aromatically good year, even if half my neighborhood thinks this is the year of the apocalypse. At least over at the Haus of Waft, we will be smelling pretty good as we leave a Chypre scent trail for the bio-engineered zombies to track, or whatever ghoulish monster there may be. So lets start this review (which was quite pleasurable to do.)
From the House of Matriarch site-”Perfume connoisseurs who prefer artisan, handcrafted fragrances over mass-produced, synthetic scents are falling in love with House of Matriarch where we create modern, expressive perfumes in the age-old European tradition. Blending with the finest aromatics available, we create world-class fragrances which delight the fifth sense and envelop the wearer in Nature’s healing beauty.”-
This is a very true statement. The nose behind this house is Christi Meshell, and from what I have sampled, what a nose! Her perfumes are very modern, without the cheap vibe that so many natural and unnatural perfumes sometimes have these days,(so far no perfumers I have chosen to review have made this offense). The aromatics that are used in Matriarch’s creation come off as authentic and of high quality, which means a lot to us at the Haus of Waft. I must tell you about the sophisticated scents I have experienced from Matriarch!
Forbidden-Exotic Potion/Unisex Tuberose- A potion this is! This was the first sample I tried, and it left me so impressed that I had to test more samples. This is a very seductive perfume, it unfolds on your skin, first expressing it’s magical flair with florals, and forbidden tinctures from times past, and when you have met these, you will eventually run into some very precious woods, that hint at some ancient forest no longer in this world. This perfume is what old, old fairy tales are made of, twists, turns, intrigue and a plot that sticks. Marvelous. I can not give it enough justice in my earthly words. ****
Carmine-Expressive Exotic Floral, but Old World Soul- On Matriarch’s site, it states that the ingredients in this perfume are too costly and obscure to be used in commercial perfumes. Just by sniffing once, you know this perfume is too decadent to ever sit on the shelves of a large department store . This is a masterpeice best handled by the true lovers of natural perfumes. Kewra greets the nose quickly,followed by great mix of rare rich aromatics, like Africa stone, Michelia alba ( which I have heard many seasoned perfumers say is not an easy aromatic to work with) and Michelia champaca. African Stone lends a nice animal note when it has lingered on the skin for a bit, but it is never offensive, enhancing the resinous members of this creation, like Bruizinho and white copal. The African stone also compliments the earthy and wood notes, like classic patchouli, vetiver,tobacco, sandalwood and oakmoss. Quite decandent.
Destiny- Floral Chypre- A perfume that sings of walking on clouds and weightlessness. How light and classical this one is! A little chorus of flowers on your wrist, as you smell Dawn Blooming Jasmine, coy neroli, gracious gardenia and sweet tuberose. And a unique orchestra they have playing for them. Green galbanum, sunny tangerine, culbeb pepper and almost elusive tansy. And the stage is set upon Night Blooming jasmine, steadfast oakmoss, seasoned vetiver and reliable benzoin. This perfume is brightly lit, after an hour or so upon the skin it becomes a peaceful glow. I really feel like this perfume could become a springtime favorite for those that have experienced House of Matriarchs perfumes. A clean, but very feminine scent.
Alpha-Woodsy, Incense Rich Fougere- This may be the most classical of all I have sampled. However, it is still modern, and could be enjoyed by my generation or my grandfather’s. How to explain this? Alpha is like a classic 60′s Thunderbird, but someone has taken it and made it better, greener. They have tweaked it to run on renewable fuel instead of gas and have added a nice, technologically nifty-new sound system. It’s a smooth ride, with out any bumps or icky chemicals. I tried this on the owner of the site, and it was manly, without the taxi air freshner smell. Classic woods, sandalwood, cypress and cedar give it mature male base, while house made incense notes,copal and frankincense may describe a man well traveled. It’s a cologne that could fit any man and tell a interesting story about them, and maybe hint of a little mystery too…..
House of Matriarch gets a big A ++ from the Haus of Waft.
Arabesque Aromas- Kirsten from Arabesque Aromas has always provided wonderous samples to us at the Haus of Waft. This perfume house is a Haus favorite. So it was no surprise when we once again got a beatiful perfume from Arabesque Aromas. And what is just as exciting is that Arabesque now is selling high grade aromatics. I always get stoked when a talented perfumer sells aromatics, because this generally means that you are going to be experiencing oils that are held to a good perfumers standards, and those are very high. (Especially if you knew Kirsten, the perfectionist perfumer!) So I will review a new perfume from Arabesque and I will also review three high grade essential oils she has in stock.
The Virgin and the Gipsy- Exotic, rich,classic- If you are somewhat familiar with classic literature, then you may recognize this perfume;s name as the title of a DH Lawrence work from around 1930. Kirsten has dedicated a perfume to this work, and it meets the grade. This is a luscious compostion, but there is a relaxing, thoughtful nature to this perfume. Resins, particularly a elegant frankincense, take you to 1930′s Egypt, and a very light trace of clove reminds you that you just came from India. Oud, ( a very soft, womanly oud to my nose), makes you remember warmly hosted dinners you attended across the East and black pepper still lingers as a home favorite of yours.Slow, but steady rockrose is the spine of this family. All this comes to you ( in a Egyptian marketplace) as you pick up a well bound DH Lawrence work called “The Virgin and the Gipsy”. This sits on the skin for a good long time, but is never forceful or invasive. Staying so pleasant and harmonious the whole time it graces your wrist ( or whichever body part you choose). I could see this becoming a nature perfumery classic. Arabesque Aromas, you never disappoint, only please.
Now onto the aromatics! Arabesque Aromas is now carrying Indonesian patchouli, Frankincense, and sandalwood. All classical royalty ingredients, going back to perfume antiquity.
Indonesian Patchouli- Impressed again! I generally prefer very dark patchouli’s but this one is light, and I love it. It’s not too green, or dirty -earthy,however it is still a rich, regal patchouli. Any aromatic lover, incense maker, or perfumer would value this essential oil.
Frankincense- A wintery, zesty frankincense. So resinous and cold masculine ( this is a good thing!), that I believe this a very unique frankincense. This is not your run-of-the-resin-mill frankincense essential oil, it has a not too tame hint to it, and that is what I look for in resin oils. Incense nerds would appreciate this guy! I know we do.
Austrailan Sandalwood- What a dreamy, but stage stealing sandalwood. He is romantic, mysterious, and so true to it’s reputation. I have not seen a sandalwood like him in a long time, maybe because he has made his way to Arabesque Aromas. He is gorgeous, and a model of sandalwood-ness. Very smooth, and ancient (but in a sexy way). And Kirsten offers a Certificate of Analysis upon request, which would have me clamouring to her essential oil section at her online shop. Thank you, Arabesque for offering these pure, authentic and high grade aromatics.
The Owner here at the Haus, recently purchased some hydrosols from the very reputable SunRose Aromatics. White Rose Alba (yes, white rose!) and a full bodied organic geranium hydrosol are being put to good use at the house this week. So I will review them, because they are of excellent quality.
White Rose Alba of Bulgaria Hydrosol- It really is like burying your nose in a newly plucked white rose. Not only is it aromatically lovely, but as a skin toner it is also very nice. For those new at aromatics, pure, authentic rose or plant hydrosols, the nutrient water left over from a steam distillation of extracting essential oils, can often be adulterated, then sold by, unknowing sellers or not so honest suppliers. So obtaining a true hydrosol can be a big deal, and a white rose hydrosol is even rarer because white rose extracts are very hard to find in a pure form. So imagine my delight when I was gifted with some of this “water of life”. If your needing some rare white rose aroma, or would like to try it, then get on over there, because this stock could go quick.
Organic Geranium Hydrosol distilled in the U S of A- I love geraniums, I love the absolute, the flower, the essential oil, and now I have fallen for the hydrosol. This compliments any rose hydrosol, and is powerhouse against parched, dry skin. I was having some problems with wind burns (live on a windy hill) and this helped greatly. The rose notes make this seem like a luxury face tonic ( well, it kind of is) and it’s not too floral to be used buy a big manly man (The Owner) as a aftershave or cooling face spray. Good job on the quality SunRose Aromatics!
Well this concludes my long due review, and I want to thank all the perfumers and suppliers who made this a positive review, and of course my readers.
**Owners Note: For SunRose- The quality of the White Rose Hydrosol is fantastic, and the customer service is unbeatable. They made this a wonderful anniversary gift for Aer, including wrapping and presentation. For both Arabesque Aromas and House of Matriarch- The samples we received also came with wonderful presentation, both perfumeries make their perfumes appeal to all of the senses which adds to their amazing quality. I personally greatly enjoyed the entire experience.
**** From the site of Matriarch.biz, about the artwork that adorns the bottles of Forbidden:ABOUT THE ART: In 1894, Gustav Klimt was commissioned by the University of Vienna to create three paintings~ Philosophy, Medicine and Jurisprudence. Criticized for their radical themes and material, their display was forbidden. Sadly, all three works were set aflame by SS forces in 1945. Photos exist which are held as public domain, so Hygieia (the serpent-wielding Goddess of Good Health and daughter of Asclepius) rises from the ashes to adorn Forbidden. We are honored to have a part in helping this beautiful art live on.
